Travel information on Security & Safety for visitors in Ethiopia

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Melkam Meskal

The Demera – Bonfire – for Meskal

Ethiopia celebrates the finding of the True Cross – lighting bonfires across the country. The cross at the centre of the bonfire eventually falls – and the direction of its fall predicts whether the year will be good and peaceful.

Lighting the chubo

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used to light the main fire. It is often decorated with the beautiful Meskal flowers that are everywhere at the end of the rainy season.

Tesfa Tours wishes everyone a lovely Meskal Holiday (This year on 28 Sept) and a peaceful and happy year.

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The New Tesfa Calendar is available now

Calendars produced by Tesfa Tours

Tesfa Tours 2012 Calendars

Dear Friends and Supporters

The new and unique Tesfa Calendar is now ready

Runs from Sep 2019 – Aug 2020 (ie Ethiopian Year 2012) is now in its 13th year and is ready!

This calendar is unique in that it details the Ethiopia dates, holidays, saints days, fasts, Islamic holidays and more onto a western calendar month format. So for example you can see on 12 September it is Meskerem 1, 2012; you can see it is a public holiday – Enkutatash (New Year); its also Yohannes – (John the Baptist’s) Annual saints day and not to forget its the monthly Lideta Mariam (birthday of St Mary) day.

This goes along side stunning photos that will make you want to get out of Addis, or fly over from where ever you have the calendar and see this beautiful country. The photos are taken from the Tesfa Community treks across the north of the country (the Agenda has photos from other additional places too).

The calendar comes in 3 versions:

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Traditional hanging calendar (29cm across ands 53cm down)- 12 months with 13 photos. We ask a donation of 200 birr to help support the Tesfa communities who have guesthouses around the country hosting visitors enabling them to walk through their beautiful landscapes.

Desktop version, like the hanging calendar but smaller to fit on your desk (20cm x 17cm) – same pages – with photos facing back and dates forward. We ask 150 birr donation for these calendars.

The Agenda – great for note taking with all the information packed in & 50+ photos

Newly designed this year is the Agenda (approx 21cm x 15cm) in portrait format, has 1 week to a page and so 53 pages (52.14 weeks a year) – running from Monday to Sunday on one side on easy to write on paper, and with a photo to match on opposite page. The agenda also includes a map showing where the community tourism guesthouses are located. For this agenda we ask 300birr donation!

The calendars are available from our offices at Kebena, but we will also have copies at various locations around Addis, notably ICS, Sandford School, German School, GIZ & EU offices. If you would like to hold copies to distribute in your organisation please let us know.

For further information call 011 124 5178 or email calendars@tesfatours.com

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Did you spot Tesfa Trek in Selamta Magazine ?

This was in the May/June issue – but you can read it at your leisure on line (go to page 54) on the link below. Journalist, Terry Adby, who trekked many of the Tesfa trails in the mountains, describes the experience trekking and staying with communities across the Ethiopian highlands.

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Ethiopian holidays that can change lives – article in the UK Guardian Newspaper

A great article by Kevin Rushby in the Guardian Newspaper (26Jan 2019)

A farmer in Janamora Woreda – Photo by Kevin Rushby

“A new tourism project in the northern Ethiopia highlands brings spectacular scenery and a warm welcome, where ‘your holiday can become the source of someone else’s dreams’.

We arrive at sunset. The guesthouse sits on a rising prow of rock with dizzying views of the vast gorge below. The altitude is around 3,000 metres, and after six hours’ walking, I am tired. Inside the thatched hut, two young

photo of Ras Dashen while on a Tesfa Trek in Simiens, curtesy of Kevin Rushby


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women are tending a fire where the shiro, a kind of bean stew, is cooking. I glance out of the small window and a lammergeier, a bearded vulture, comes sailing past. Perhaps he, too, is drawn by the smell of food. This is a hungry land. My guide, Suleiman, comes in and we chat to the women, who seem very excited and happy…..”

https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2019/jan/26/ethiopia-holiday-can-change-lives-new-tourism-project?CMP=share_btn_link

 

 

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Staying with the community on Tesfa treks will be the highlight of your trip

The view from Mequat

We just received this amazing feedback:-

“Mark, your treks were amazing. Staying at these 4 places [2 nights in Wollo & 2 nights in Tigray] was just pure happiness and the best moments of this trip. We’re grateful.”

From a French couple who came out of the Agame Mountains in Tigray this morning having traveled across the North of Ethiopia with Tesfa Tours.

Don’t miss out. Spend at least a few nights with the Tesfa communities on

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View from Enaf Community Guest house

your tour of Ethiopia.

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Backpackers Guide to Ethiopia in the Guardian lauds Tesfa Tours

Simien mountains. Photograph: Nigel Pavitt /Getty Images

Simien mountains. Photograph: Nigel Pavitt/Getty Images (from Guardian article)

[Except from Guardian Article] “………Adigrat, a border town perhaps set for great times now that a new peace treaty between Ethiopia and Eritrea has finally been agreed. Mark Chapman runs the lauded community trekking trail Tesfa Tours here, which also leads treks near Lalibela, Ankober and in the Simien Mountains……….”

Click on this link to see the full article: The Guardian travel a backpackers guide to Ethiopia .

 

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“Ethiopia has astonishing landscapes, ranging from the flat-topped mountains of the north to the otherworldly multicoloured salt flats and lava lake of the Erta Ale volcano in the Danakil Depression; rich flora and fauna(this is the country where residents and hyenas live in peace); and ancient cultures, including the the city of Axum (one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Africa), the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and Africa’s oldest mosque, Nejashi. It also has one of the continent’s fastest-growing economies (second only to Ghana), with booming cities and a young population. For all this, it is yet to attract large numbers of tourists, and visitors can often find themselves alone in this amazing country.”

 

 

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The Unique Tesfa Calendar is ready!

New Tesfa Calendar
(desk top and agenda)

The new Tesfa Calendar that runs from Sep 2018 – Aug 2019 (ie Ethiopian Year 2011) is now in its 12th year and is ready!

This calendar is unique in that it details the Ethiopia dates, holidays, saints days, fasts , Islamic holidays and more onto a western calendar month format. So you can see on 11 September it is Meskerem 1 2011, you can see it is a public holiday – Enkutatash (New Year), its also Yohannes – (John the Baptist’s) Annual saints day and Al Hijara- Islamic New Year … not to forget its the monthly Lideta Mariam (birthday of St Mary) day.

This goes along side stunning photos that will make you want to get out of Addis,

The Tesfa hanging calendar – promoting the community treks

or fly over from where ever you have the calendar and see this beautiful country. The photos are taken from the Tesfa Community treks across the north of the country (the Agenda has photos from other additional places too).

This year the calendar comes in 3 versions:

The traditional hanging calendar (29cm across ands 53cm down)- 12 months with 13 photos. We ask a donation of 200 birr to help support the Tesfa communities who have guesthouses around the country hosting visitors enabling them to walk through their beautiful landscapes.

The desktop version, like the hanging calendar but smaller to fit on your desk (20cm x 17cm) – same pages – with photos facing back and dates forward. We also ask the 200 birr donation for these calendars.

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The Tesfa Agenda – Ethiopia and western calendar merged

donation – however if you buy 3 we will ask only 1,000 birr!

The calendars are available from our offices at Kebena, but we will also have copies at various locations around Addis, notably ICS, Sandford School, German School.  If you would like to hold copies to distribute in your organisation please let us know.

For further information call 011 124 5178 / or email calendars@tesfatours.com

 

 

 

 

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The great Lenten fast draws to a close and Easter approaches

Fasika in Lalibela

Enkwanaderasachu

Best wishes to everyone celebrating Easter on either the 1st or the 8th of April. Easter in Ethiopia, known as Fasika is celebrated according to the Orthodox or Eastern church calendar this year on 8th April. Some years it falls on the same day as in the western church, some years it can be far apart, but this year it is one week after western Easter.

Fasika is a Ge’ez (the ancient liturgical language of Ethiopia) word and also the word in Amharinya and Tigrinya for Easter. Easter is also sometimes called Tensae a Ge’ez word meaning to rise). It is one

Sheep are bought into Addis for sale for holidays

of the most important holidays in Ethiopia, marking the end of a long 55 day Lenten fast. On Easter Sunday chickens, sheep, goats and cattle are dispatched for the pot as the fasting comes to an end in no uncertain terms. Sunday sees piles of sheep skins on street corners, to be picked up by small dealers in trucks. In the days leading up to Easter flocks of sheep and goats as well as herds of oxen are driven by herders into the city, chickens are driven in trucks and pick ups. They are sold at impromptu markets all over the city to be slaughtered in back yards. Prices of livestock more than double for Easter. Sheep come to the capital with drovers bringing them across countryside from several hundred miles away, from Shoa and even as far as Wollo.

Local shepherd boys in Wollo


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After Easter there is no fasting not even on Wednesdays and Fridays until after Pentecost on 27th May (Parakilitos). In the countryside the end of the fasting is celebrated in different ways. In Tigray priests are feted with parties held by different households from their parish. In Wollo I have seen the girls making swings from rope to hang from trees and sing songs while swinging, while the boys have javelin contests. Its also a second wedding season as people like to get married before the rainy season and after the fasting. These are enjoyable times in the countryside, and if you have the chance to spend a week or so up in the countryside on a Tesfa Trek in Wollo, Tigray or the Simiens you will be a very welcome guest and

Hosanna palm rings

participant at the celebrations. Its still not too late to book your trek in early April!

The lead up to Fasika starts now with Palm Sunday or Hosanna this Sunday (1 week before Easter, 1st April this year).  It is a very special day in the Orthodox church commemorating Jesus’s march into Jerusalem on a donkey with Palm fonds laid before him. It is marked with palms (worn by many worshippers on hands or head), processions and special services in the church.

Following Hosanna is the last week of the Great Lenten fast or Hudadi.  This final week of Hudadi is commonly known as Holy Week, or the “Week of Pains” or in Ethiopia Himamat and it is the strictest part of Lent. During Himamat no absolution is given, and during this week the fast becomes yet more rigorous. For some strict worshippers, having broken the fast after mass on Thursday they will not eat any food nor drink even a drop of water until Easter morning. So they totally abstain for all of Good Friday (or Sekelet) and Saturday, breaking this fast after the church service that goes through the night on Saturday, finishing at around 3am on Sunday morning. These three days are known as “Qanona”. The priests neither eat nor drink but remain in the churches singing and praying incessantly.

As far as I am aware no other major religion has such penitential fasting. For the strict observers of the fast, the 55 days of Lent are very tough on the body. Fasting in Ethiopia not only means a vegan diet but also means many hours of no food or drink. Each fasting day the observer will not eat of drink anything from the time they wake up until after the mass in the middle of the day is finished in church for many that means 3-4pm. Two simple meals may then follow, a late ‘lunch’ or more properly ‘break-fast’, and a light supper in the evening. What is staggering is that there is no drinking – not water, not coffee, nothing – during those fasting hours.

For vegetarians the end of Lent means no fasting food, even on Wednesdays and Fridays – so make the most of the last week of fasting.

 

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Looking for people with whom to trek?

Happy trekkers on Mnt Abuna Yoseph, Wollo

Want to go on a trek but need a companion?

We have been thinking about linking solo trekkers who wish to have another person/people to join them to share costs, and be a companion on the trek.

On this post we will note down solo trekkers who are looking for others to join them. We will not post the contact info of clients or potential clients – only their name.

Start date – approx 23 June / 4 night trek / Abuna Yoseph mountain (behind Lalibela).  A great trek into the Afro Alpine,

Trekking in Meket

climbing the highest mountain in Ethiopia outside of the Simien and Bale mountains.      Ref Matthew Lloyd Thomas

Start date: 27 Oct  / 5 night trek / Eastern Meket /  client coming from Gondar  but (access from Gondar, Bahir Dar or Lalibela). Gondar, Bahir Dar or Lalibela). This trek is on the Meket escarpment outside Lalibela – a walk with great views over the lowlands to the north and along the escarpment. See the rural life of the farmers along the plateau .      Ref Annika Keller
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Start date: 4 Nov / 4 night trek / Wof Washa forest on Rift Valley escarpment 140km N.E. of Addis Ababa. This is a stunning trek into

The forest & valley in early morning – Lik Marefya, Wof Washa forest

indigenous forest ranging from Erica Arboreal at high altitude to Juniper, Olive and Podocarps as you head lower down. Can be accessed with a drive (>3hrs) from Addis –  via Debre Berhan.         Ref Annika Keller 

If you are interested to join on ay of these treks or would like more details please contact Mark@tesfatours.com,  copy to Hlina@tesfatours.com     Happy Trekking!

 

 

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Melkam Timkat

The community at Mequat Mariam parade the Tabot out at TImkat with Ethiopian flags flying

The community at Mequat Mariam in Wollo parade the Tabot out at Timkat

Today one of Ethiopia’s big holidays has started, it is the eve of Timkat and if you are in Addis the roads are closing as the Tabots are paraded out of the churches on their way to the field where the Baptism of Jesus will be commemorated tomorrow morning.  Timkat – meaning ‘Baptism’ is a festival that seems to encapsulate Ethiopia’s unique place in the world. It is frequently referred to as Epiphany, which while technically correct undersells what is a very special and Ethiopian day. Epiphany is a Greek word meaning manifestation or appearance, and it celebrates the events in Christ’s life that showed him to be the son of God. In the early church (before Rome got into it) this was the major feast in the church after Easter. In Epiphany was encapsulated all the major events that manifested Christ’s Godhood to man: his birth (Nativity) , the visit of the Magi, the turning watering wine at the wedding in Canaa, and his baptism in the Jordan river. With the appearance of Christmas in the developing church as a new festival, his nativity was taken out of Epiphany.

Holes are cut in the Ice in Russia

Bathers queue to dip in the freezing water in St..Petersburg

In the Eastern Orthodox churches Epiphany, in Greece often called Theophany (meaning shinning forth/appearance) is celebrated to commemorate the Baptism of Jesus as it is in Ethiopia. In Russia people cut a hole in the ice on a body of water and jump in. In Greece a cross is thrown into water and men dive for the honour of bringing it back. In Ethiopia, the holy Tabot is the heart of the church and what in fact makes a church holy, is processed to a place where water will be blessed. The tabot is in fact a replica of the Tablets of Stone that Moses carried down from Mount Sinai (although many state that they are a replica of the the Ark of Covenant).

In fact it is really spread over 2 or 3 days. This year – (leap years are different next one is 2020), it will start on the 18th Jan (Ter 10). In Addis the Tabots will leave the churches at around 2pm with a big procession, singing of hymns and chants, drumming, horns being blown and dancing to the chants. Icons are processed and most especially the tabots wrapped in brocaded cloth carried on the heads of the high priests under umbrellas. The procession will makes its way over several hours to the special resting point for the tabots. In north eastern Addis Ababa this place is Jan Meda (the Imperial horse racing fields). At Jan Meda about a dozen tabots spend the night with tents for shelter, and priests and devoted followers. The fields become the centre of the festival for the evening and next day, and for tabots from St Mikael churches the next day too.

Tens of thousands of people will gather at the fields in the evening, hundreds sell refreshments and nicknacks. The roads around are packed solid.  During the processions roads are closed across the city (and the country) and no cars can pass. Houses beside the route the tabots pass are blessed. Young lads lay down carpets on the road in front off the tabot. They rapidly roll them up behind and run them round to the front again, extreme hard work and a devotion that illustrates how deep seated are the beliefs and culture of the Orthodox church even in the capital city.

Where to see it? Head to your nearest Orthodox church, and plan to be there by 2pm. Then you can join in the procession to the fields. Don’t be worried by the crowds, everyone is joyful and will be happy to see you, but do show respect for the priests and the tabots, dress appropriately (women should cover heads and neither men nor women should wear short clothing – if you have traditional white cotton clothes all the better). At the convergence points of the tabots there could be pick pockets at work so be careful of possessions and do not carry unnecessary valuables.
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The followers play the church drum “Kabero” and dance the tabot across town

These Timkat processions are through-out Ethiopia where ever there is an Orthodox church. Procession make there way across towns in urban areas and over the fields in the countryside, to a place where in the morning the Baptism of Christ in the Jordan river is commemorated. Water will be blessed and the multitudes will be splashed with the holy water and try to take some home with them in bottles. Following this ceremony the tabots (with the exception of Mikael tabots) will be processed back to their church with similar joy, noise, colour and reverence to that with which they were processed today. These processions bring to mind the biblical accounts of King David’s processing the Ark of Covenant to Jerusalem: “So all Israel brought up the ark of the covenant of the Lord with shouting, to the sound of the horn, trumpets, and cymbals, and made loud music on harps and lyres.” although Ethiopia’s instruments are drums and horns.

So where should you go to see it (in Ethiopia). In Addis Ababa, head for your nearest place where tabots have congregated, and try to get there quite early (8am). There will be big crowds near the major places such as Jan Meda, and beware of pickpockets! In the countryside similarly head for the tabots resting place early in the morning. Local people will tell you when.

Worshippers jump into the Fasilides baths

In Gondar you will need to seek out a place early in the morning at Fasilidas’ baths. It becomes extremely crowded. Your guide will advise you. The moment of the joyful splashing is the high point. In Gondar youngsters jump into the pool, in Addis the clergy spray the crowd from the water in the pool in the midst of the field. In parishes up and down the country water is splashed from the blessed pool, spring or river in a joyous celebration. Then you can follow the joyful processions back up to the churches.

The 20th January, Ter 12, is one of the big St Mikael days in the year, and also commemorates the Wedding Feast at Canaa when Jesus turned water into wine. The St.Mikael tabots remain in the field on the 19th and on the morning if the 290th a special mass is celebrated and the procession then begins back to the Mikael church. This is the biggest procession of them all as followers of other nearby churches will join in. In many places there is Gooks: racing of decorated horses around the procession. With a lot of dancing through the morning the Tabot is processed back to its church bestowing blessings on all whose house is passed. Most processions will be finished by around 2pm.

Melkam Timkat!

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