Travel information on Security & Safety for visitors in Ethiopia

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Photographs for the new calendar – 2013!

Calendars produced by Tesfa Tours

Tesfa Tours 2012 Calendars

Hi Trekking Folks

Are there any Tesfa trekkers out there with photos from their trips that we could use in our new calendar (Wollo, Tigray, Janamora or Wof Washa community treks)? As usual we are planning to produce a Tesfa calendar again for 2020/21 – Ethiopian year starting 2013 – despite the virus.  We will desperately need to encourage clients into the mountains once this cloud is lifted and people can start to travel.

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We love photos (in landscape format) that highlight the guesthouses, the landscapes, the communities and treks and the wildlife… if you think you might have some please do get in touch with me – mark@tesfatours.com

I am also producing an agenda – although that could be scaled down a bit this year – and so will need photos from elsewhere in Ethiopia – as there are some 55 photos (in portrait format) in the Agenda. For any photo included we will off course give a credit on the photo and a complimentary copy of the calendar will be sent to you!

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Melkam Hosanna / Palm Sunday

Palm Fonds are worn to commemorate Palm Sunday (Hosanna) – this one specially made for COVID19 emergency

Easter is now one week away in Ethiopia. Today is Palm Sunday or Hosanna in Ethiopia. It is usually one of the busiest days in the church calendar, but today – although some still went to church, Addis Ababa remained quiet. People did put palm fonds on their heads. Hosanna marks the start of the final week of Hudadi, commonly known as Holy Week, or the “Week of Pains” or in Ethiopia Himamat and it is the strictest part of Lent. During Himamat no absolution is given, and during this week the fast becomes yet more rigorous. For some strict worshippers, having broken the fast after mass on Thursday they will not eat any food nor drink even a drop of water until Easter morning. So they totally abstain for all of Good Friday (or Sekelet) and Saturday, breaking this

Eyesus Church very quiet on Palm Sunday

fast after the church service that goes through the night on Saturday, finishing at around 3am on Sunday morning. These three days are known as “Qanona”. The priests neither eat nor drink but remain in the churches singing and praying incessantly.
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Fruit and Veg store in Addis

This year Easter will not be a great celebration. Many will continue to fast seeking God’s intersession in these COVID19 times. However lockdown as in Europe is not possible. People live day to day from small businesses and there is no real safety net. People buy their bread at small bread shops, fruit and veg from stalls on the road side, small ‘supermarkets’ sell other food stuffs, corner shops sell pretty much all you need- pasta, rice, flour, eggs and much more.

Now handwash stations are outside shops and ropes keep people away from the counter or even outside – so that business is conducted in the street. The government has declared a state of emergency to tackle the virus and are making preparations: hospital beds, gathering PPE, asking retired medical staff to volunteer. Tesfa Tours, as with many businesses has been asked for and has provided  funds and a vehicle to help with the emergency.   We all pray that the measures are enough to stave off the worst of the virus.

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Coronavirus update from us

Handwashing stations in central Addis Ababa

I am absolutely sure all of our clients and supporters know full well about the Coronavirus that has swept through so many countries of the world. There are 11 confirmed cases of COVID-19 in Ethiopia (as of 26 March), however due to lack of testing it is widely accepted that there will be more than this.

We have taken the decision to ask staff to stay at home. A few staff will come to the office occasionally to process salaries and other critical payments, but all others will stay at home in an effort to protect them, their families and try to stop the spread of the virus. The staff of Tesfa Tours have voluntarily agreed to take 1 week unpaid leave per month, as there is no business in the near future. I have undertaken not to make any staff redundant at this point, and am also planning to pay the communities some money to help them keep the guards paid at the community guesthouses and to keep some income rolling in.

We have also agreed to close the community guesthouses even to local tourism as of 25 March (when our last client will return from his trek), as we do not want to spread the virus from Addis to the rural areas.

I will be checking my emails regularly and my senior staff will work from their phones, but with the uncertainty caused by the virus we can not accurately cost or plan trips in the coming months. Never the less we will still be here on the other side and the communities will need your support, so we encourage you to look at visiting the Ethiopian highlands once this is all over.

I will send out a few blogs to let you know how we are doing in Addis Ababa.

Please everyone –

  • Stay safe by taking proper precautions and thereby keeping those more vulnerable than you safe;
  • Remember we are in this together, and we must all come out on the other side more unified and together as a result of this pandemic;
  • Keep positive, and do not keep reading worst case scenarios – we need to keep a perspective here.

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We look forward to more positive news in the near future.

Mark, and the Tesfa Tours Team

 

 

 

 

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Fasting, Prayer sticks and the Battle of Adwa:- March in Ethiopia

Fasting selection with Ethiopian beer

For Orthodox Christians, March is the middle of the Lentan Fast. The Hudadi or the Abiy Tsom as it is known, started on Mon 24th February (Yekatit 16) and runs for 55 days through to 19th April – Ethiopian Easter (in fact across the Orthodox world) known in Ethiopia as Fasika.

The fast means followers observe a strict vegan diet. There is debate as to whether fish is allowed during fasting, and you will see it on many fasting menus. However all meat, dairy produce and eggs is avoided during the fasting time. Many people will also not eat or drink from when they get up until some time later in the day, maybe mid morning, but for the strict observers until mass has been said in the church in the afternoon which would be around 3pm or 4pm. The fast for many also means abstaining from drinking and dancing. In the church itself during fasting time the kebero drums are not played, but there is a slow beat taped out with prayer sticks and to the rattle of the sistrum, as out set by St Yared in the 6th century.

Abuna Gebre Menfes Kiddus

The most important saint’s day in March is for Abo – Abuna Gebre Menfes Kiddus – on 14th of March (Megabit 5). Abo is a saint that lived with wild animals and his churches often have really wild looking forests. On this day in Abo churches you will here the liturgical music created by St Yared without the Kebero.

There is a big public holiday on 2nd of March (Yekatit 23). This is Adwa Day, the day that Ethiopia commemorates the victory of the Ethiopian troops over the Italians at the battle of Adwa in 1896. This battle ended Italian colonial ambitions in Ethiopia, until Mussolini gave renewed energy to colonial aspirations in the 1930s.

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Painting depicting the Battle of Adwa

The story goes that the Italian commander General Oreste Baratieri, knew that the massive Ethiopian force was living off the land and was running critically low of supplies, but that political pressure from Rome and on the urgent advise of his commanders, in the early hours of the morning of 1st March he ordered his army forward in three divisions to engage the superior Ethiopian forces in battle. Anyone who has been to Adwa will know it is a mountainous area with many steep peaks. The Ethiopians had occupied the high ground and the Italian divisions got confused in the dark and separated. Each division was roundly beaten and by noon the remains of the Italian army was in retreat. 7,000 of the Italian army were killed, with others wounded and taken prisoner. Two brigadiers were killed and a third captured, and many rifles and all their artillery was captured. As such their fighting force was decimated. From the Ethiopian side some 4-5,000 were killed, but the fighting force remained intact.

However Menelik decided not to advance into Eritrea and totally annihilate the remains of the Italian army. Despite the Ethiopian army being intact, many solders had been on campaign for a long time, and the country was just recovering from a severe famine. Some believe that Menelik believed, perhaps rightly, that such a move would drive the Italian public to push for another campaign against Ethiopia. In point of fact the battle lead directly to the signing in October 1896 of the Treaty of Addis Ababa which ended the war between Italy and Ethiopia and in which the Italian’s recognised Ethiopia as an independent country.

The whole war came about because of the preceding treaty of Wuchale signed in 1899. Article 17 of the treaty in the Italian version stated that Ethiopia must conduct its dealings with foreign powers though Italy thus to be in effect a protectorate of Italy, but the Amharic version stated that Ethiopia could use the good offices of Italy in its foreign dealings. Now Menelik had achieved the goal of maintaining Ethiopian independence in an age in which colonial powers over-ran every other country in Africa (only Liberia was independently ruled). This left Ethiopia as the emblem and point of pride for other Africans dreaming of self governance. It is not a coincidence the the AU, formerly the Organisation of African Unity, has its home in Addis Ababa today.

The battle will be commemorated at Adwa Dildi, a bridge below the Feresenya Condominiums (Signal). It is a public holiday across the country (and our office is closed!)

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Come to Lalibela to see a Ring of Fire in the sky.

A Ring of Fire in the sky above Africa’s Jerusalem, and Holy relics paraded from the churches. 

Ring of Fire – an Annular Solar Eclipse

Two special events this June in Lalibela: on Sunday 21st June,  you can witness a rare celestial phenomena, when the sun is eclipsed by the moon. It will be an ‘annular’  eclipse  so a ring of light or beads of light will become visible. While this event will begin in central Africa, and carry on to the middle east, experts believe Lalibela maybe one of the best places to observe this.

 

Icons & Tabots paraded under brocaded umbrellas

 

A few days before the eclipse, on Friday 19th June, you can celebrate the second biggest Saint’s Day in this Holy City: Senay Mikael  (The June St Michael’s Day) which is the annual saints day for Bete Mikael. It is also the anniversary of the death of the Saint King Lalibela who died on 19th June in 1221 ( 799 years ago) who is buried in the church behind Beta Mikael – known as Golgotta.
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Woman kisses the cross of a Monk

After a night of praying on the evening before, early in the morning sacred Tabots  (the holy of holy in the church sacred replicas of the Tablets of Stone) will come out for the churches with brocaded umbrellas and singing and dancing.

Why not come to Lalibela for these momentous days. Fly in on Thursday lunchtime and fly back out on Sunday afternoon.

Tesfa Tours has developed special packages to enjoy these two special occasions. Included in the package is transport, hotel, guide, entry fees and special viewing glasses to protect your eyes. We can also offer a fully inclusive package with all meals and a special Champagne breakfast for viewing of the eclipse.

The Eclipse will start 6:50 am, with the full eclipse at around 8am. It will finish by about 9:15am.  After the eclipse you can relax and ponder on what you have just witnessed. Your flight back will leave at 1:10 pm – so we will provide transport to the airport at 11:30am

Contact Tesfa Tours for more details.  eclipse@tesfatours.com

 

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Melkam Gena

Gena ceremony in Lalibela

Today – 7th January – it is Christmas (known as Gena) in Ethiopia, and indeed across the Orthodox world. For Ethiopians it is the culmination of a 44 day long Advent fast (the second longest fast after the Lenten Fast that runs for 55 days up to Easter). But in Lalibela Gena will be celebrated tomorrow on 8th January – for this year (2012) is a leap year or a Markos year. In fact the additional day came at the end of 2011 (Ethiopian Year) – Pagumay had 6 days -one extra day, and so the new Ethiopian Year began on September 12. This means that MOST dates get put back a day in the western calendar so Kulubi Gabriel – (Tahsas 19) usually falls on 28th December – but in a this year it was on

Bale Wold church in Addis, crowds gather to see the Tabot (Tahsas 29)


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29th December. However Gena does not move date – except in Lalibela. The western and Ethiopian dates re-sync with the western leap day at the end of February (2020). Why?

Well in the Ethiopian calendar and in Christian tradition Mary became pregnant on a specific day (before the leap day) and she was pregnant for a specific number of days… so Christmas – the birth of Christ must be on the a day earlier in the Ethiopian calendar. So today is Tahsas 28 – not 29. Yet Tahsas 29 is the monthly celebration of the birth of Christ…

Anyway -when ever you celebrate it – Melkam Gena!

 

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Passing Gondar, Wild Wheelchair expedition to the Simiens 2019

Atse Tewedros, Emperor of Ethiopia from 1855-1868, is remembered in Gondar central square.

Atse Tewedros statue, Piazza, Gondar

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Wild Wheelchair Expedition – Simien Mountains 2019

Wild Wheelchair UK team arrives

So begins a wild adventure: 2 severely disabled athletes seeking to reach the highest point in Ethiopia – Ras Dashen who top is 4,533 meters.

It started in Ethiopia today with the arrival in Addis of quadruple amputee Alex Lewis and his team. They flew on to Bahir Dar to meet Emebet who lost both her legs in a road accident as a little girl. David Collinson – the expedition leader,  put this mad scheme together and had Southampton University design special hand cycle that could get these athletes along the rough road that winds its way up and down

Crate emerges from Cargo terminal

steep mountain sides to a plateau just below the gnarled peak of Ras Dashen.

Problem number 1 (1 of no doubt many) This piece of kit was stuck in customs who refused to release it for several days.

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Crated handcycle won’t fit

Finally tonight on the eve of the Meskal holiday – with most Addis Ababans

The handcycle with the crate taken down

celebrating around the fire and enjoying

music and drinks – we managed to get the kit out of customs – but then it wouldn’t fit in the truck.  having quickly taken the crate apart it was loaded in a truck that will set off early tomorrow morning  on the 12 hour road journey to Bahir Dar.

 

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Melkam Meskal

The Demera – Bonfire – for Meskal

Ethiopia celebrates the finding of the True Cross – lighting bonfires across the country. The cross at the centre of the bonfire eventually falls – and the direction of its fall predicts whether the year will be good and peaceful.

Lighting the chubo

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used to light the main fire. It is often decorated with the beautiful Meskal flowers that are everywhere at the end of the rainy season.

Tesfa Tours wishes everyone a lovely Meskal Holiday (This year on 28 Sept) and a peaceful and happy year.

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The New Tesfa Calendar is available now

Calendars produced by Tesfa Tours

Tesfa Tours 2012 Calendars

Dear Friends and Supporters

The new and unique Tesfa Calendar is now ready

Runs from Sep 2019 – Aug 2020 (ie Ethiopian Year 2012) is now in its 13th year and is ready!

This calendar is unique in that it details the Ethiopia dates, holidays, saints days, fasts, Islamic holidays and more onto a western calendar month format. So for example you can see on 12 September it is Meskerem 1, 2012; you can see it is a public holiday – Enkutatash (New Year); its also Yohannes – (John the Baptist’s) Annual saints day and not to forget its the monthly Lideta Mariam (birthday of St Mary) day.

This goes along side stunning photos that will make you want to get out of Addis, or fly over from where ever you have the calendar and see this beautiful country. The photos are taken from the Tesfa Community treks across the north of the country (the Agenda has photos from other additional places too).

The calendar comes in 3 versions:

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Traditional hanging calendar (29cm across ands 53cm down)- 12 months with 13 photos. We ask a donation of 200 birr to help support the Tesfa communities who have guesthouses around the country hosting visitors enabling them to walk through their beautiful landscapes.

Desktop version, like the hanging calendar but smaller to fit on your desk (20cm x 17cm) – same pages – with photos facing back and dates forward. We ask 150 birr donation for these calendars.

The Agenda – great for note taking with all the information packed in & 50+ photos

Newly designed this year is the Agenda (approx 21cm x 15cm) in portrait format, has 1 week to a page and so 53 pages (52.14 weeks a year) – running from Monday to Sunday on one side on easy to write on paper, and with a photo to match on opposite page. The agenda also includes a map showing where the community tourism guesthouses are located. For this agenda we ask 300birr donation!

The calendars are available from our offices at Kebena, but we will also have copies at various locations around Addis, notably ICS, Sandford School, German School, GIZ & EU offices. If you would like to hold copies to distribute in your organisation please let us know.

For further information call 011 124 5178 or email calendars@tesfatours.com

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