Although Tigray was added to the green area by the UK FCDO back in December 2024, it was once again painted orange – ‘advise against all but essential travel’ in March 2025. Although there are political challenges as different sides struggle for political control in the region, there has not been a threat to the security of tourists in the area. We really hope that the travel advise can once again go green.

This is a fascinating part of Ethiopia is a must visit. Here the earliest churches are found, some cut into the rock in cliffs, most famously in Gheralta.  Tesfa has helped local communities to build simple guesthouses just to the north of Gheralta in the Agame mountains – also where more churches are found in the cliffs. It is also home to the obelisks and tombs in Axum where the massive stone architecture makes me think of ancient ruins in Peru and Mexico as well as Egypt. But more recently Tigray was overtaken by conflict as the regional forces battled with federal forces and the Eritrean Army. This war came to an end in Nov 2022 with the Pretoria Peace accords, and although the implementation has been slow and incomplete, fighting has come to an end.  I visited the area twice after the situation stabilised: in March 2023 to see the effect of the war on our guides, the community guesthouses and the communities themselves. I then went back with a team of friends: other tour operators, guides and Betty from our team, to trek through the Agame mountains staying at the 3 guesthouses that are fully operational, and the lodge in Hawzen, and to visit one of Ethiopia’s most spectacular churches – Abuna Yemata Goh and go on to Axum itself.  We were able to report that it was safe and we were made so welcome. The hotels we stayed in were fine and the services we received – food, electricity, internet – were all good.  We flew into Mekele and out of Shire – itself an hour out of Axum (as Axum’s runway was not serviceable yet – but it is now!).

Despite this recent change in travel advice from several European governments the overall situation in Tigray remains safe. We advise clients to completely avoid the border with Eritrea, and the disputed territories in the extreme west and south east of the region. This is because the areas are militarised and tense rather than there being ongoing fighting. However since late October 2024 political tensions have increased but our analysis is that this is not likely to cause any flighting. The ruling Tigrayan party has fractured and the regional government is in political dispute with the federal government. This has been ongoing since then.  However the population are not ready for another war and they seem to have lost faith with their leaders. We are keeping a close eye on the situation.

Again during this period I have travelled up into Tigray 4 times - in Feb 2025 after a visit to the Danakil I came up to Gheralta and the community guesthouses, and again in Sep 2025 on bikes exploring remote valleys again in Gheralta and the Agame mountains. I was back in October with my children in their half term to show them Axum, and a community trek, and the rock churches, and most recently in Jan 2026 with my mother and kids again to enjoy the relaxing calm of Gheralta lodge (and explore more rock churches. It is most definately safe 

There are key areas not to visit, which are in fact well away from most places of interest to tourists. These  are west of Shire towards the Sudanese border and the border area with Eritrea. In addition there are some areas in south east Tigray, notably areas south of Mekele (Alamata, Maychew) that would be unwise to visit as this is in someplace disputed territory. But we believe the core area (Mekele, Gheralta, Agame, Adigrat, Axum) is safe for travel.