Amhara is the region of Ethiopia that is home to Lalibela, Gondar, the Simien Mountains, Lake Tana and the Blue Nike falls. All key tourist attractions since tourism first began. Yet it is a region to which all western government travel advisories strongly advise against travel. Fighting flares up and then dies down, making road travel across the region very risky. For much of the last year some places could be safely be reached by local flight, but that is changing.